Gigi - Knitty: Summer 2008

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by Melissa Wehrle

When I was first asked to design something with a variegated, hand painted yarn, I didn't know what to do with myself. It was probably one of the best design challenges I have been given so far. Apparently, knitters also had a similar problem trying to find interesting, suitable patterns for their hand painted stash, so I knew I couldn't give up.

As I sketched and sketched, I finally found a formula that worked – a nice silhouette that had some interesting details with a simple stitch.

This kimono cardigan makes use of the formula above. A nice silhouette (kimono cardigan) + interesting details (small buttons, gathering at shoulders) + simple stitch (stockinette stitch) = perfect project for that "I have enough yardage for a sweater" hand painted or variegated yarn!

model: Melissa Wehrle photos: David Bryan Lombard, Rich Dubin

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Lower Chest Circumference (measured at top of ribbing): 29[30.5, 32.5, 35, 38.5, 43, 48] inches
Length: 18.5[19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5] inches

MATERIALS

Yarn Botanica Radiance [50% Merino Wool / 50% Tencel; 400yd/365m per 100g skein]; color: Bloom; 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] skeins

Recommended needle size:
1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles
1 set US #2/2.75mm straight needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

2 small stitch holders
Tapestry needle
6 buttons, 3/8 inch diameter
Sewing needle and thread to match yarn
2[2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3]yd narrow ribbon (optional)

GAUGE

25 sts/33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles
34 sts/40 rows = 4 inches in 2x2 Rib using smaller needles, slightly stretched

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

Front and sleeve edgings are worked in one with the body of the sweater. The back neckline edging is a continuation of the front edging, and is sewn in place after the sweater is complete. Drawstring casings are worked at the shoulder seams.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here:
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html

Instructions for making a twisted cord can be found here:
http://www.knittingatknoon.com/twcord.html
http://www.tbramsden.co.uk/html/lkc_twisted_cord.html

m1p: Make 1 purl stitch: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl into front of this stitch.

Yo2: Yarn over twice

2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2):
Row 1 [WS]: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2x2 Rib.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
Using smaller needles, CO 102[106, 114, 126, 138, 154, 170] sts.

Work in 2x2 Rib until work measures 5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and continue in stockinette st as follows:

Next Row [RS]: K6[7, 1, 2, 9, 10, 8], k2tog, [k6(8, 8, 6, 5, 5, 6), k2tog] to last 6[7, 1, 2, 8, 9, 8] sts, k to end. 90[96, 102, 110, 120, 134, 150] sts.
P 1 row.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
P 1 row.

Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. 102[108, 114, 122, 132, 146, 162] sts.

Work Increase Row as above.

Next Row [WS]: P1, m1p, p to last st, m1p, p1.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 114[120, 126, 134, 144, 158, 174] sts.

CO 28[31, 34, 38, 41, 41, 41] sts at end of next 2 rows using Backward Loop method. 170[182, 194, 210, 226, 240, 256] sts.

Next Row [RS]: P1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k to last 7 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1. This row establishes ribbed edges of sleeves. Continue working this ribbed edge until piece is complete (edge will not be written into remaining directions for this piece).

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 9[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12] inches from CO edge at base of sleeves, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
Row 1 [RS]: K to last 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to last 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts before last wrapped st, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts before last wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 3-4 six times more. Note that each short row is 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts shorter than the previous one.
Next Row [RS]: K to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts.
Next Row [WS]: P all sts, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts.

Back Neckline and Left Shoulder Casing:
Row 1 [RS]: K60[64, 70, 78, 85, 92, 100] sts and place these sts on st holder; BO 50[54, 54, 54, 56, 56, 56] sts, k to end. 60[64, 70, 78, 85, 92, 100] sts.
Rows 2-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5 [RS]: P all sts. This row forms turning ridge for casing.
Rows 6-9: Work in stockinette st. BO all sts.

Right Shoulder Casing:
Place held sts on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn at neckline edge.
Work Rows 2-4 as for left shoulder casing.

LEFT FRONT
Using smaller needles, CO 53[57, 61, 69, 73, 81, 89] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K1, [p1, k1] 3 times, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, [p2, k2] to last 7 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and continue as follows:
Next Row [RS]: K14[8, 7, 6, 8, 12, 10], k2tog, [k8(8, 7, 4, 5, 4, 5), k2tog] to last 7 sts, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1. 49[52, 55, 59, 64, 70, 78] sts.
P 1 row, working first 7 sts in pattern as set.

Note: Read ahead! Neckline and side shaping are worked at the same time, beginning on the next row.

Shape Side:
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last 7 sts (shaping neckline as instructed below), p1, k1, p5.
Next Row [WS]: K5, p1, k1, p to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. These 2 rows establish pattern for front edge (worked over 7 sts). Maintain these 7 edge sts in pattern until piece is complete (edge will not be written into remaining directions for this piece).

Work Increase Row as above.
Next Row [WS]: P to last st, m1p, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more. A total of 12 sts have been increased at armhole edge.

Work 2 rows in pattern, casting on 28[31, 34, 38, 41, 41, 41] sts at end of second row (a WS row) using Backward Loop method.

Next Row [RS]: P1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k to end. This row establishes ribbed edge of sleeve. Continue working this ribbed edge until piece is complete (edge will not be written into remaining directions for this piece).

AT THE SAME TIME, shape neckline as follows:

Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 9 sts, k2tog, p1, k1, p5.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 21[23, 23, 23, 24, 23, 23] times more. 67[71, 77, 85, 92, 99, 107] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 9[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12] inches from CO edge at base of sleeves, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [WS]: P to last 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, W&T.
Row 2 [RS]: K to end.
Row 3 [WS]: P to 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts before last wrapped st, W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: K to end.
Repeat Rows 3-4 six times more. Note that each short row is 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts shorter than the previous one.
Next Row [WS]: P all sts, working wraps together with wrapped sts.

Shoulder Casing:
Row 1 [RS]: K to last 7 sts, place these 7 sts on st holder. 60[64, 70, 78, 85, 92, 100] sts remain.
Rows 2-4: Work in stockinette st.
Row 5 [RS]: P all sts. This row forms turning ridge for casing.
Rows 6-9: Work in stockinette st. BO all sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Using smaller needles, CO 53[57, 61, 69, 73, 81, 89] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: P2, [k2, p2] to last 7 sts, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1.

Row 2 [RS]: P1, [k1, p1] 3 times, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2.

Rows 3-7: Work as for Rows 1-2 (ending on WS row).

Row 8 [RS]: [P1, k1] twice, yo2, continue in pattern as set to end of row.

Row 9 [WS]: Work in pattern to yo2, drop first yo from needle, p remaining yo together with next st, k1, p1, k1. One buttonhole has been completed.

Repeat Rows 2-9 five times more; 6 buttonholes have been completed.

Continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and continue as follows:

Next Row [RS]: P1, [k1, p1] 3 times, ssk, [k8(8, 7, 4, 5, 4, 5), k2tog] to last 14[8, 7, 6, 8, 12, 10] sts, k to end. 49[52, 55, 59, 64, 70, 78] sts.
P 1 row, working last 7 sts in pattern as set.

Note: Read ahead! Neckline and side shaping are worked at the same time, beginning on the next row.

Shape Side:
Increase Row [RS]: P5, k1, p1, k to last st (shaping neckline as instructed below), m1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k5.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. These 2 rows establish pattern for front edge (worked over 7 sts). Maintain these 7 edge sts in pattern until piece is complete (edge will not be written into remaining directions for this piece).

Work Increase Row as above.
Next Row [WS]: P to last st, m1p, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more. A total of 12 sts have been increased at armhole edge.

Next Row [RS]: K to end, CO 28[31, 34, 38, 41, 41, 41] sts using Backward Loop method.
Next Row [WS]: P1, [k1, p1] 3 times, p to end. This row establishes ribbed edge of sleeve. Continue working this ribbed edge until piece is complete (edge will not be written into remaining directions for this piece).

AT THE SAME TIME, shape neckline as follows:

Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Work 7 sts in pattern, ssk, k to end.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 21[23, 23, 23, 24, 23, 23] times more. 67[71, 77, 85, 92, 99, 107] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 9[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12] inches from CO edge at base of sleeves, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [RS]: K to last 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts before last wrapped st, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to end.
Repeat Rows 3-4 six times more. Note that each short row is 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts shorter than the previous one.
Next Row [RS]: K all sts, working wraps together with wrapped sts.
Work 1 row in pattern.

Shoulder Casing:
Row 1 [RS]: Work 7 sts, place these 7 sts on st holder; k to end. 60[64, 70, 78, 85, 92, 100] sts remain.
Rows 2-4: Work in stockinette
Row 5 [RS]: P all sts. This row forms turning ridge for casing.
Rows 6-9: Work in stockinette st. BO all sts.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block pieces.

Fold casing at each shoulder edge to WS of work along turning ridge, and sew edge in place. Sew shoulder seams together through purl bumps formed by turning ridges. Sew underarm/side seams.

If using ribbon, cut ribbon into two equal lengths. If using cord, make two twisted cords, each approx. 1[1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5]yd long.

Thread ribbon or cord through casing, beginning at sleeve edge, emerging at neckline edge, then back through adjacent casing to sleeve edge.

Back Neckline Edging:
Place held sts of left front edge on larger needle and rejoin yarn. Work in pattern until piece is long enough to cross back neckline and meet right front edge.
Graft sts to held sts of right front edge. Sew lower edge of edging to back neckline.

Sew buttons to left front edge, opposite buttonholes. Weave in any remaining ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Melissa is currently a full-time knitwear designer in NYC.

In her free time, she is the Creative Director for One Planet Yarn and Fiber and designs her own line of patterns which can be seen here.